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WHEN IN...CAPE TOWN

Going Native: bays, penguins and Table Mountain—Dominique Botha on how to make the most of a beautiful city... read more »

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MAPPING AMERICAN WRITERS

Cartophilia: maps can show much more than topography. Simon Garfield puts the literary greats in their place... read more »

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GOING SOUTERRAIN

Our Top 12 of 2012. No. 9: Underneath Paris is a parallel universe of tunnels, caverns, bones—and party venues. Will Hunt spends a few days and nights down there with a band of urban explorers… read...

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IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF DARWIN

The Galápagos gave Darwin a free rein and ample inspiration. Now, Rebecca Willis finds, they are tightly policed—and make you think about the destruction of species... read more »

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BEYOND THE KILLING FIELDS

Nearly 50 years ago, Nicholas Shakespeare's family was forced to flee Cambodia. Now he and his father return for the first time since the fall of the Khmer Rouge, and find ordinary Cambodians enduring...

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INSIDE THE FORTRESS OF THE NATIONAL THEATRE

Britain's National Theatre is on a roll. This week it announced that from March it will have four productions running in the West End. Four years ago, Robert Butler spent a month at this vibrant...

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WHEN IN...ISTANBUL

Going native: beware of the shoeshine shysters. Alev Scott shows how to make the most of the mosques and the mayhem read more »

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THE MISSISSIPPI MEANDER

Cartophilia: a ghostly map takes Samantha Weinberg to the river, and shows her where it no longer flows read more »

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SEAMUS HEANEY'S SEVEN WONDERS

The poet's choice of favourite places shows a fondness for the classical and the monumental read more »

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PLUMBING THE DEPTHS

A walk on the wild side: beneath the Peak District in Derbyshire lies a web of caves and streams. Robert Macfarlane plucks up his courage and takes the plunge  read more »

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THE BALLOON IS BEST

The Big Question: the biographer Richard Holmes experiences "a second childhood" as he travels from A to B—or, more often than not, XFrom INTELLIGENT LIFE magazine, January/February 2014In somnolent...

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The deliciously rude spaghetti puttanesca

Nothing that goes into it needs to be fresh, and it takes just minutes to prepareA rose by any other name might smell as sweet, but under a different alias would spaghetti puttanesca retain its earthy...

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Which US state really invented key lime pie?

It’s Florida’s official dessert. But it may have originated hundreds of miles away from the KeysUpsetting Floridians is a dangerous game. “Florida man enters Jacksonville Store and Chases People with...

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The croissant, breakfast of rebels

Few baked goods inspire such bitter partisanship. And don’t even think about trying to make them at homeEveryone knows the croissant story, don’t they? Viennese bakers, under siege by the Ottomans in...

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Don’t knock the doner kebab

Go to Berlin for doners you don’t have to be drunk to enjoyTo British ears, the words “doner kebab” drip with unappealing connotations: dubious meat, dodgy food standards and decisions taken under the...

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Why real men should eat quiche Lorraine

The dish doesn’t deserve its namby-pamby reputationAn icy blonde, an urbane hero and a mysterious McGuffin are all classic tropes of Alfred Hitchcock. You can add an unlikely suspect to that list:...

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Chicken Kiev: the world’s most contested ready-meal

Was it invented in Kiev, Moscow, Paris...or the backroom of a British supermarket?As the Soviet Union disintegrated in May 1990, its leader Mikhail Gorbachev made what was, in effect, a concession...

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Keepers of the flame: in defence of real barbecue

It’s one of the world’s greatest – and oldest – cuisinesMen drink beers on the patio, one eye on the ball game. They delve into mega-packs of processed meat, chucking burgers and sausages on a...

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The bittersweet charms of tiramisu

Its name means “pick-me-up” in Italian“Tiramisu,” murmurs Rob Reiner’s character knowingly to Tom Hanks in “Sleepless in Seattle”. “What is tiramisu?” asks Hanks, a widower venturing back into the...

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The tangled history of spaghetti bolognese

How to make the mayor of Bologna lose his temper When Virginio Merola, the mayor of Bologna, visited London earlier this year, something made him very angry. A restaurant was advertising a “speciality...

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